Sourcing operations
Fabric MOQ and lead times from Chinese mills: a planning guide
MOQ is not arbitrary and lead time is not one number. Here is how a fabric order actually moves through a mill, where the days disappear, and how to negotiate both without damaging the relationship.
Why minimum order quantities exist
A dyeing machine has a minimum bath volume. Running 200 kg of fabric in a 500 kg machine wastes water, chemicals and heat, and the shade is harder to control. Loom setup has a similar fixed cost: warp preparation and drawing-in take hours regardless of how many metres follow.
That is why MOQ is quoted per colour, not per order. Ten colours at 300 m each is a very different proposition from one colour at 3,000 m, even though the total is the same.
Typical MOQ by fabric type
The figures below are what a mid-size mill can realistically run. Stock programmes are the exception — they exist precisely so smaller brands can buy 100–200 m.
| Fabric type | Custom MOQ | Stock MOQ | Production days |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton poplin / twill | 300 m / colour | 100 m | 18–30 |
| Linen (washed) | 300 m / colour | 100 m | 20–30 |
| Denim | 500 m / colour | 300 m | 25–35 |
| Circular knit (jersey, rib, terry) | 300 m / colour | 150 m | 15–28 |
| Viscose / challis | 300 m / colour | 200 m | 18–28 |
| Bonded softshell | 500 m / colour | 100 m | 28–38 |
Where the lead time actually goes
A quoted '25 days' usually means production only. The real calendar from enquiry to warehouse is longer, and most delays come from approvals rather than the mill.
- Lab dip preparation and courier: 7–10 days, of which 3–5 are your approval time.
- Bulk production after approval: 18–28 days depending on fabric.
- Inspection and packing: 2–3 days (we do a 4-point AQL check before packing).
- Ocean freight to Rotterdam or Hamburg: 30–35 days; to Los Angeles: 28–32 days.
- Air freight when a launch slips: 5–7 days door to door at 3–5× the cost.
How to lower MOQ without paying a premium
The most effective lever is batch consolidation: offer to run two or three colours in one dye batch, which can cut the per-colour minimum by up to 40%. Second, accept a stock base cloth with a custom finish rather than a custom construction. Third, take a slightly heavier or lighter weight that is already on the loom.
Ask for the mill's stock shade card early. Choosing a shade within 1–2 ΔE of a stock colour often avoids a custom dye run entirely, and the visual difference on a finished garment is negligible.
A realistic planning calendar
For a launch in early March, place the fabric order in mid-November. That allows two weeks for lab dips, four weeks production, five weeks ocean freight, and two weeks buffer for customs or a re-dye. Brands that start in January end up air-freighting, which erodes the margin the fabric saving was meant to protect.
If you are developing a new construction, add three to four weeks for a sample loom run before the lab dip stage. Developing and bulk ordering in the same month is the most common cause of missed launches we see.
Frequently asked
Can I order less than the MOQ for sampling?
Yes. Sample lengths of 5–20 metres are available before a bulk commitment, typically at a sample surcharge that is credited against the bulk order.
How long does fabric production take after lab dip approval?
18–28 days for most woven and knit fabrics, 25–35 days for denim, and 28–38 days for bonded softshell. Add 2–3 days for inspection and packing.
Is it cheaper to order from stock?
Usually 5–10% cheaper per metre and far faster, because no dye bath or loom setup is needed. The trade-off is limited shade choice and no custom weight or finish.