Compliance
OEKO-TEX, GRS and GOTS: what EU and US buyers should request
Certificates are easy to display and hard to verify. This is what OEKO-TEX, GRS and GOTS each prove, what they do not prove, and the exact documents to ask for before you sign a PO.
Why certificates decide who you can sell to
For EU and US brands, certificates are no longer marketing decoration. Retailers ask for them during onboarding, and sustainability claims face increasing scrutiny under EU green-claims rules and US state-level advertising law. A supplier who cannot produce a lot-level document puts your claim at risk.
The practical consequence is simple: ask for the certificate that matches the claim you intend to make, and ask for the version tied to your specific shipment.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100: what it covers
STANDARD 100 tests every component of the finished article — fabric, thread, trims, prints — for harmful substances: formaldehyde, azo dyes, heavy metals, chlorinated phenols, PFAS and more. It is organised into product classes, with Class I the strictest for baby articles and Class II for articles worn next to the skin.
What it does not cover: working conditions, environmental management or recycled content. Those are separate schemes (BSCI or SA8000 for social, ISO 14001 for environment, GRS for recycled content).
- Ask for: the certificate PDF with a valid expiry date.
- Also ask for: the test report showing your fabric and shade were in scope.
- Check: the certificate holder name matches your supplier, not a trading intermediary.
GRS: recycled content with a paper trail
The Global Recycled Standard verifies recycled content, chain of custody from recycler to finished fabric, chemical restrictions and social/environmental criteria. The critical document is the GRS transaction certificate (TC), issued per shipment, naming the product, the quantity in metres and the certified input.
A supplier can hold a valid GRS scope certificate and still ship non-certified fabric. Without a TC, your recycled claim is unsupported. This is the single most common gap we see when brands audit their supply chain.
GOTS: organic fibre plus processing
GOTS requires a minimum 70% certified organic fibre (95% for the 'organic' label grade) and sets rules for processing chemistry, wastewater and social criteria. It covers the whole chain, so both the fabric mill and the garment factory need scope certificates.
Expect a price premium of 15–25% over conventional cotton and 10–14 extra days of lead time for TC issuance and traceability checks.
The document checklist for your next PO
Put these in the purchase order, not in an email thread. Suppliers prioritise what is contractually required.
- Scope certificate valid for the production dates, in the mill's own name.
- Transaction certificate naming your PO quantity, issued after shipment.
- Latest test report covering the specific shade and finish you ordered.
- Restricted substances list (RSL) confirmation, signed, aligned to your brand's RSL.
- Shrinkage, colourfastness and dimensional test results for the production lot.
Red flags when reviewing a supplier's certificates
The certificate is in a trading company's name while the mill is unlisted. The expiry date falls before your production window. The certificate covers a fabric construction you are not buying. The supplier offers recycled content without a transaction certificate. Any of these means the document will not survive a brand audit.
Frequently asked
Does OEKO-TEX certify that a fabric is organic?
No. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 tests for harmful substances in the finished article. Organic fibre content is certified by GOTS, OCS or equivalent schemes.
What is a GRS transaction certificate?
A shipment-level document issued under GRS 4.0 that links a specific quantity of certified recycled fabric to the certified yarn input. It is the evidence behind a recycled content claim.
How long are textile certificates valid?
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certificates are typically valid for one year and must be renewed. GRS and GOTS scope certificates are also annual, and transaction certificates are issued per shipment.